Sewing with Serger: Tips for Using Overlocker
You do not know what a serger and how to use it? The serger (an overlocker) is special sewing machine that is used for finish off the seam allowances or edges of fabrics your garments.
Sewing with a serger help you save a lot work time and help make your sewing project professional looking, clean and tidy.
If you have an overlock sewing machine you need learn these impotant tips how to use a serger, clean and oil it.
What threads are suitable for overlock sewing machine
The threads is the most important factor for good work an overlocker. Threads on cone spools are ideal suitable for the overlock sewing machines and for coverstitch machines also.
These sewing machines are spending a lot of threads. Using the small coils is is undesirable because they are barely enough for one project.
In addition, from the conical shape coil the thread go up more easily than from small coil. This condition ensures correct tension of the overlock seam all time.
Serger threads tension troubleshooting
Threads tension of serger should not be too strong. Start to adjust the thread tension with minimum values (1-2) of tensioner dial.
Note: Too strong or thick threads and its big tension can break the looper!
Read more about serger thread tension here: How to thread a serger correctly.
Coils with different colors help configure overlock seam
If you have little skill and you cannot correctly adjust the thread tension of overlock seam use the different colors of threads.
Using this trick you can properly configure a serger stitch. Next change these coils on threads having same color. Note: Never pull the thread out completely!
When is needed replace the threads, tie the end of both threads (new and old) together and then gently pull them.
Before inserting a thread in the needle eye you need trim the nodule.
Tips: To make going a thread along the entire path easier, loosen the tensioner.
For oiling overlocker use a medical syringe
Every overlocker requires cleaning and oiling regularly. Before start to oil a serger you need to clean it from dust and linters. Unfortunately, without removing all the protective covers a serger is not always possible to grease all rubbing and rotating components and mechanisms overlock.
Here are tips to cleaning and oiling your serger.
Tips: For oiling overlocker you can use an usual plastic medical syringe.
Serger has the threading scheme
How to thread a serger is well illustrated in the manual. But you must remember that each serger has the thread overlock threading diagram pasted on one of the covers or sides of housing.
Replacing the thread is produced by pulling
Replacing all serger threads is produced by pulling the old threads together with new thread together. Cut the old thread close to the coil. Place the new spool and tie with the knot ends of both threads. Pull the old thread (each individually) until the thread is out of the eye of the looper.
The needle thread needs to pull out from the needle eye! Through the eye of the needle thread with a bundle will not go.
Do not trim the chains threads near its edge
A serger can't do back stitches (like on regular sewing machine) and you need learn to fix the edge of the chains threads. Do not cut the chains threads very close to the edge of the fabric. You need to leave long its "tails" and insert it into overlock seam back. This is easily done using a latch tool (that is used on knitting machine) or using other similar tools.
Do not use the pins instead basting
During overlocking do not use the metal pins instead basting. If you will use pins don't forget pull out them far from the knives of serger. If the pins fall under the knife it can to damage a serger. To avoid damaging the knives and loopers is better use instead pins the binder clips.
Big cone bobbin you can rewind to 4 separate coils
The thread that is wound on the conical bobbin is best suited for overlock. But for serge you need buy four bobbin cones, minimum three.
But you can buy only one. Big bobbin cone you can rewind to 4 separate coils on sewing machine, as shown. To do it you need pull on a piece of foam rubber on winder spindle. The bobbin cone is needed to put on the table and keep the thread in his hand near coil.
Note: Winding the thread should be at a low speed.
Do not to press strongly on the pedal
Be careful at the start of sewing. Do not to press strongly on the foot control pedal. Serger has the knives that at high speed can cut fabric more than is necessary.
The differential feed on a serger
What is differential feed on a serger? This is main feature of modern home overlock sewing machine. The feed dog is divided into two parts. Each part operates autonomously. They can move at the same speed or at different speeds. This makes it possible to sew a qualitatively any fabrics including the knitted fabrics. Changing the ratio between the two speeds you can make with knob or a switch from 0,5 to 2,5.
English isn't my first language, so please excuse any mistakes and help correct them.
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