How to Draft a Pencil Skirt Pattern

How to Draft a Pencil Skirt Pattern direct on fabric

In this lesson you will learn how to draft a pencil skirt pattern without building it on the paper. We will draft a pattern skirt scheme directly on the fabric.

Owner and Creator of website SewWay
Hello I am Natalia!
Now I'm going to show you how to draft a skirt pattern quickly and easily without wasting a lot of time on building scheme a skirt on the paper. Womens or girls skirt pattern can be done in under an hour. Try it!

How to get your body three measurements

At beginning you need to take your body measurements: waist, hips, and length a skirt.
Length of the segment from the waist line to hip line is constant 21-22cm. Such waist-to-hip measurement is suitable for any girls having growth 165-175cm.
You can test the distance between your waist and hip yourself. To do this vertical measurement correct you need tie yarn around your both levels (waist and hips).
Note! Knowing how to get your waist and hips measurement accurately is the way to drafting perfect pattern and sewing good-tailored skirt. Hold the measuring tape snugly, but you shouldn't be sucking in. Don't change the natural posture of the body also.

This pattern women's skirt is suitable for girls or women having standard measurements of waist and hips. This pattern can be used for sewing a skirt having sizes from 42 to 48 or 4-10 (USA).
The growth of girls must be anywhere from 165cm to 175cm.

Table for cutting fabrics

For cutting a fabric is recommended use the table having wide and smooth surface. But if you not have such wide and long table you can use any other surface. For example, the fabric can be decomposed on the floor.

Tip for beginners! Before cutting a fabric I recommend fold it in half and pinning both edges together.

First vertical line of the pattern a skirt

OK, we'll continue to draft a skirt pattern. Grab ruler and chalk and draw vertical line, as shown. This distance between the edge of the fabric and this line is 5-6 cm.

This pattern a skirt has closed slit

This pattern has closed slit (vent) at bottom of back piece a skirt.
If you want sew a pencil skirt with invisible slits you can make them by using overlapping pieces. View details for the sewing technique how to do closed slit you can on other pages this website.
So, take a chalk and let's draft a vent with straight lines. First you need to calculate top point of the slit. The distance from the hips line to this point is of 15-20 cm.
See also: Skirt vent sewing tutorial.

Vertical lines of the front and back parts a skirt

Now we're going to draw the vertical lines of the front and back parts a skirt. These distances are 1/4 of hips measures.
On back part you'll need to do a tiny bit of math and add 1 cm.

The waistline of a skirt

Now the bottom part of pattern a pencil skirt is finished. It's time to move to the top part a pattern, draft the waistline a skirt.
Using such math you can easy calculate these points.

How to create two curved lines

First you need to draw two straight lines and then create two curved lines as shown in this photo.

The plain darts on the waistline

The pencil skirt must have four darts along the waistline. The darts on the waistline help to make streamline shape of skirt.
These photos show you how to draft the darts on front and back parts of pattern a pencil skirt.

The waist line of pencil skirt

At this stage of drafting a pattern you need a little corrected the waistline of skirt.

The pencil skirt measurements

From this point draw new straight line.

How to get your body measurements for skirt

Now you need to draw such curved line.

Repeat dart creation

While many patterns of skirts come without the darts, but this skirt has two pair darts, on front and back parts of skirt.
Repeat this dart creation for the front piece the pattern. Note, the front darts are narrower and shorter.

Your pattern of pencil skirt is ready

Now your pattern of pencil skirt is ready for cutting.

How to cut the waistband

Finally you need mark off on the fabric the place of the waistband.
Don't forget to add 4cm to the hem line a skirt and mark the seam allowances using these recommendations.

How to test this pattern of skirt

Now your pattern of pencil skirt is ready for sewing.
Tip for beginners: First sew a skirt from inexpensive fabric. Test this pattern of skirt. If necessary correct it before cutting the good fabric.

English isn't my first language, so please excuse any mistakes and help correct them.
E-mail for sending is on the contact page.

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