Free pattern drafting a straight skirt

Free pattern drafting a straight skirt

In this lesson you will learn how to draft the straight skirt pattern. This is the basic pattern of a sloper skirt. This pattern has no seam allowance. On the basis of the straight model a skirt you can add any design changes and draft other types of skirts.

Owner and Creator of website Sewway

An experienced tailor teaches you to draft the pattern of the straight skirt. This free method is used to draft any size skirts.
See also: Pencil skirt pattern and tutorial pdf.

Draft the Basic Pattern

Firstly, you need to take your body measurements: waist; hips; and length of a skirt. To do horizontal measurements correct, you need tie yarn around your body at both levels (waist and hips).
The vertical measurements (between your waist and hemline) are measured on the side seam of skirt.
Length a skirt (between your waist and hemline) also is measured on the side of body.
During a measuring waist and hip tie the tape snugly, but you shouldn't be sucking in.

Now start to draft a straight skirt.
At first step you will to draw a quadrangle using your measurements.

You need to make a rectangle, one side of which is equal to the length of the skirt, the second - the circumference of the hips plus 1cm.

Put down 20-22 cm and draw a horizontal line (hip line). Now the drawing is ready to build a pattern straight skirt.

How to Draft a Skirt Pattern

How to Draft a Skirt Pattern

Firstly, you need draw the vertical line dividing the pattern of skirt into two parts. Now you need (from this point) move to the left by 1 cm and mark it with letter (T).

Now you need to find the points T1 and T2 using this calculation :
(1/2 Hip + 1) - (1/2 Waist + 1) = N
N - (3 +2) (darts) = E
E/2 = T1T = T2T

Both segments (left and right) from point (T1 and T2) must be divided in half and be marked with points preferably. In my drafting these are not marked, so as not to clutter up the pattern a skirt. But if you wish, you can mark them with any letters, such as B1 and B2.

From these points draw two vertical short lines (darts). Draw the darts according to these calculations.

Now we need to correct the position of a waistline for both halves of the skirt. On the back part the line will be shifted down by 1 cm. On the front part the line will be shifted down by 1.5 cm.

In my drafting the both parts of waist line are straight, but you need to make them slightly "bulging" toward the top of darts.
Now you can build the darts of a skirt.
Note: you need to do an angle under the upper part of darts as shown in this scheme.

From the points T1 and T2 you need to draw side lines down, as shown. To do these lines smoothly need to make a special calculation. But it is not mandatory. You can draw these curves freely. If you are beginner you can add in this place the bigger allowances (2-3cm). After fitting a skirt these areas can be cut.
Now drafting pattern a straight skirt is completed and you can to cut fabric.

Sewing tips for begenners

After drafting the pattern is necessary to make the patterns other details of skirt and a belt. Be sure to make the pattern of these items, they will help you to accurately calculate fabric consumption.

The front part of skirt not has the connecting seam. Therefore, before cutting the fabric fold it in half (face to face). Along this fold line you need attach the front part of the skirt pattern.
The back has two parts. On back side of the pencil skirts usually is done a vent (vertical slit) and is inserted an invisible zipper.

The seam allowances: the back middle seam and waist - 1.5 cm: two side 2-2.5 cm; hem 3 - 4 cm.
These recommendations are for beginners!

Test any pattern before cutting the fabric. Firstly you need sew the straight skirt from an inexpensive fabric - "experienced" sample followed by correcting.

Do not forget that any pattern of a skirt from online resource cannot take into account the individual characteristics of the women's figure. For a more precise fit skirt on the figure it is imperative to do improvements of the pattern. Only after these steps your skirt will be perfect to sit on your figure.

Seam allowances

How to cut parts of straight skirt

The wide smooth surface of a table is recommended. But if you not have such wide and long table use any other surface. The fabric can be decomposed on the floor.
Tip for beginners! Fasten the fabric edges with pins or clips before cutting.

How much you need fabric?

How much you need fabric for sewing the pencil skirts or any other models of straight skirt?
This skirt fits into the "one length" plus 10-15 cm. If provides deep inverted pleats or additional finishing elements such as pockets, the tissue consumption is increasing.

You need more fabric if the total measurement "Hip" is greater than 130 cm. In such case require "two lengths" plus 10-15 cm (waistband with buttonhole).

English isn't my first language, so please excuse any mistakes and help correct them.
E-mail for sending is on the contact page.

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