How to Sew a Centered Zipper

How to Sew a Centered Zipper with a Sewing Machine

An invisible zipper is used most in women's clothing (skirts, dresses, pants etc.) than other types of zippers. Nevertheless, there are cases when it is necessary to use a conventional zipper.
In this tutorial you learn how to install a centered zipper with a sewing machine using a special zipper foot.

The inserting a centered zipper we will start with preparation

Before sewing a zipper on your garment we need have little practice. Therefore, I recommend making your first installation on two pieces of fabric. In addition you need to install presser foot on your sewing machine and buy narrow adhesive tape.

Apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the zipper area

I recommend mark the wrong side a fabric with chalk.
Place the interfacing tape on the wrong side of the zipper area.
Press this adhesive tape with steam iron through another thin fabric.

Using zigzag stitch to neaten edges a fabric

Using the serger you need to neaten these edges of your garment including the interfacing.
If you don't have a serger you can use zigzag stitch.
Note: Before start installation of zipper you need sew both parts of fabric together.

Mark a place where is the beginning of zipper

Before the stitching you need mark a place where is the end of zipper.
During sewing a zipper you need stop near this marks and fix this seam with back stitches using the reverse lever of sewing machine.
But now you need to join both parts of fabric together with temporary seam.

Select largest value a stitch length

Before make a temporary seam you need select largest value a stitch length. This seam you need sew without fastening at the end. After installation a zipper it should be removed.

Press the seam open on wrong side a fabric

Next you need press the seam on wrong side a fabric, as shown.

The presser foot for centered zipper

Now you need set a presser foot for sewing a zipper on sewing machine.

Central line a zipper should be go along the seam line

It is the important point. You need mark the place where is the end stitching. Here you need make a turn, make a few stitches, make a new turn and start sew a zipper on the other side.
Note: Stitching you need to make on the face side of garments.
Be sure that a needle not catches the metal stopper.
Be sure that central line of zipper is going along the seam line.

Place a zipper into the marked area on wrong side and using the contrast thread, baste the zipper.

Three stitch lines where will be sewn both tapes a zipper

Now turn our test fabric on right side and start sewing along these lines.

The two parallel lines from central seam line

The vertical parallel lines will be 1/4" away from central seam. The horizontal line will be going near stopper, be careful.

Cut the basting threads on some segments

When you will start to delete basting threads I recommend you cut them on some segments first. This trick helps you easy pull them out of the seams.

How to trim and pull seam from top to the end of zipper

Now the installation a centered zipper is over but you need to do one last work. You need to trim temporary seam and pull its threads, as shown.

The sewing seam ripper

You can do this in two ways: using an awl or with seam ripper.
After reaching the vertical short mark where you done a few back stitches, you need stop trimming of temporary seam.

English isn't my first language, so please excuse any mistakes and help correct them.
E-mail for sending is on the contact page.

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