How To Install The Invisible Zipper

How to install the invisible zipper

If you will sew skirt or dress you need know how to install a zipper. It is important skill for good sewing the skirts or dresses.
There are a few kinds of zippers, but for most women's garments are used the invisible zipper type.
I will show you how to install the invisible zippers on experimental pieces of fabric. The zipper and a flap of fabric have the different colors. Do not pay attention to it.

In this tutorial you will learn how to sew an invisible zipper. The steps of installing a zipper with 30 photos and tailor's comments.

The Invisible Zipper for skirt

The Invisible zippers are used for garments predominantly, especially for skirts and dresses. The Invisible zipper characterized in that it is recessed in the seam and that's why it is "invisible".
The main feature of an invisible zipper is it's smooth face surface on the right side.

The adhesive tape for fabric

The both edges of the fabric where will be sewn a zipper should be strengthened with a special adhesive tape for fabric (glue on one side).

Presser foot for install the invisible zipper

You need have a special zipper foot also.
Note: not all sewing machines have this presser foot that is used for sewing an invisible zipper.

Presser foot for lap zipper

On this photo you can see the differences between a normal presser feet for sewing usual zippers (from above) and presser feet for sewing the invisible zippers (from below).

Seam allowances on edges of the fabric

At beginning you need to mark both sides of two pieces a fabric with lines, having the seam allowance 1.5 cm.

Press the adhesive tape on edges a fabric

The sewing an invisible zipper is not easy. For making good looking zipper you need have a skill.
Use this first advice: If you will be add to the edges of fabric the adhesive tapes you can eliminate most of the challenges.
Cut two pieces of adhesive tape little longer than the zipper.

How to iron the adhesive tape

Second advice: Do not iron directly on the adhesive tape without lining.

The ironing of the adhesive tape

This process will be quite easier and cleaner.

The edges of fabric need a serger

Before start the zipper stitching you need serge both edges of fabric or make this using zigzag stitching.

The edges of fabric need to neaten with overlock

These seams are located inside the skirt, but it is always better when they are nice look

Remove the universal presser foot

Now you need remove from the sewing machine an universal presser foot and set a special presser foot.
Don't forget that to sew an invisible zipper you need buy a special foot (if it is not attached to youe sewing machine set).

Use the presser foot for install the invisible zipper

Insert the top needle thread into the slot a presser foot, as shown on this photo.

Cutting the top edges of invisible zipper

The upper parts of the zipper tape you can a little to cut. But this is not mandatory, and depends on the seam allowance size that you want make along the waistline your skirt or trousers.

The top edges of invisible zipper

Make it now (on this stage) is not necessarily, but you must know, so you can shorten the excess ends of the tape when it interferes to sew belt etc.

First step sewing the invisible zipper

Most tutorials are provide instructions that are overly simplified. Many of them not have the small but important details of installation an invisible zipper. I offer you tutorial where any step has the great photo with tailor's comment.
Now it's time start sew an invisible zipper on your skirt.

Use the left slot of presser foot

Look at the sole of your presser foot, you will see there two slots.

Sewing an invisible zipper

For stitching the left part of a zipper you need to use the left slot, as shown, and vice versa.

Sewing the left side of invisible zipper

At this place you have to stop the sewing without forgetting to make a few back stitches (lockstitch).

Start to sew a right side of zipper

Now we will add another part of zipper to opposite edge of your skirt.

Use the right slot of presser foot

For stitching the right part a zipper you need to use the right slot of presser foot, as shown.

Sewing the right side of invisible zipper

At this place of the right side a zipper you have to stop sewing.

Face side a fabric with zipper

On this photo you can see face side a fabric (skirt) with an installed invisible zipper.

Face side a fabric with the closed zipper

Close the zipper and let's look at the wrong side of your skirt.

End of the zipper tapes

This is the end of stitches holding the zipper tapes to fabric. You need to continue it, but on the opposite side, from bottom a skirt or dress etc.

Remove the zipper foot

Remove the zipper foot and attach the universal presser foot.

Last step of installing the invisible zipper

Start stitching these parts a skirt together with the same seam allowance.
Tip for beginner: Use hand basting before any sewing.

Remove the fabric from sewing machine

Don't forget to make a few back stitches (lockstitch).

Press the seam allowance of invisible zipper

Press the flat seam of fabric with an steam iron (except the zipper tape).

Iron the face side of fabric

Now you can to iron the face side of fabric (skirt), as shown on this photo.

Wrong side of the invisible zipper

This is wrong side of the invisible zipper.

English isn't my first language, so please excuse any mistakes and help correct them.
E-mail for sending is on the contact page.

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